Kaya Koyu in the hills above Fethiye

Kaya Koyu. Home only to ants and lizards now, Kaya Koyu in the hills above Fethiye was once a bustling market town. In 1923 the town’s Greek inhabitants left as part of the population exchange that took place between Greece and Turkey after the Greco-Turkish war.

A walk through the crumbling town is an evocative reminder of the era and the millions of displaced people, both Christians and Muslims, who had their lives turned upside down. The town’s biggest church is the 19th-century Panayia Pyrgiotissa where frescoes and mosaic flooring can still be seen.

The Blue Cruise

There are lots of boat trips from Fethiye to the islands and bays around the Turquoise Coast. One-day island hopping expeditions are plentiful and booking is rarely essential. For longer voyages along the route known as the blue cruise, there are a number of options. This is a three or four day voyage with overnight stays at some of the most beautiful parts of the coast.

Xanthos , Letoon, Pinara

One of the most popular of the Lycian cities, Xanthos is also probably the most extensive from the point of view of the sightseer. It can get hot among the ruins, so it’s best to go in the cool of the morning.

The best of Xanthos was taken off the site by Charles Fellows in 1842 and now holds pride of place in the British Museum. The Nereid Monument, the Harpy Tomb and other art work is now in London, but there are great views over the Xanthos valley, and the ruins are extensive enough to occupy an hour or two.

Of particular interest is a pillar tomb on which the Lycian language, still only partially understood, is inscribed. The shattered terraces of the large theatre are evidence of an earthquake. History records that the city was twice the scene of mass suicide, when the inhabitants threw themselves onto fires rather than surrender.

Not far from Xanthos, Letoon is the religious heart of ancient Lycia and a shrine to the nymph Leto. The remains of three temples and a Hellenistic theatre can be seen, though it’s the columns sticking out of the marshy ground are that stays with the visitor.

About 15 minutes drive away, just as it seems the road will disappear into the cliffs, the mysterious city of Pinara appears, with the dramatic sight of the black holes of tombs carved into the red cliff.

In the shade of the pine trees, door lintels and columns seem to grow out of the scrub. The tumbled weather-worn masonry nestled in the protective hand of these mountains is a delight and a scramble through the ruins really feels like discovering a lost city. Public transport is patchy, and tours can be rushed, but renting a car is well worth the price.

Saklikent Gorge and Tlos

Even if car rental is not an option there are still sites worth seeing inland. The longest and deepest gorge in Turkey, the Saklikent gorge, has become increasing popular as it’s only 40 minutes from Fethiye, and regular bus services run from town. In summer it’s possible to wade along part of the gorge, and it’s also possible to organize rafting activities with the local camp site.

A couple of miles from Saklikent, sitting high on a rocky bluff, Tlos is one of the oldest Lycian cities. Much of what remains is overgrown, but there are impressive Lycian tombs, and the remains of an Ottoman castle. Several tour operators run package day trips from Fethiye to Saklikent and Tlos.